It’s hard to beat the view at the new Cockatoo II restaurant, located in the former Goose Cove Lodge. Photo by Ben Ellison
Friends, I write this on the verge of summer, and let’s be frank: We never know how many of our city cousins are going to come up to enjoy Maine summer in all its glory. To those who do visit and/or live here, a plea: we have a coastal economy to support! Put down that keyboard, hammer, or hoe; ready the boat; gather the troops; and venture forth in search of that perfect on-the-wharf steamed lobster, paella, or whatever you fancy. Tip your server well while you are at it. If such venturing forth suggests undue interference with work or other so-called “obligations,” I say: Yes, you can!
I have a venture to propose. Goose Cove, near the southwest corner of Deer Isle, is a reasonable fair-weather anchorage of multiple pleasures. First there’s Barred Island (1), a classic bold button of evergreen and ledge connected to the mainland by a sandy bar during about two thirds of the tide cycle. It’s a splendid circum-hike with good footwear, and also the terminus of the Nature Conservancy’s Barred Island Preserve, whose mossy main trail (2) undulates over the hump of Stinson Point a half mile or so to the parking area on Goose Cove Road.
One of the best beaches in the region. Barred Island to the right.
Photo by Ben Ellison
There’s also a high shore trail (3) from the preserve into the property well known as the Goose Cove Lodge, and one of the best beaches in the region (4). Alas, the lodge only exists now as a website (www.goosecovelodge.com), be- cause it changed hands rather abruptly early last year, perhaps because we didn’t frequent its fine dining establishment (5) sufficiently.
We now have a second chance to do our duty, however. This summer, the restaurant will re-open as the Cockatoo II Portuguese Seafood Restaurant and offer a mouth-watering menu seven days a week, 12:00 to 9:00 p.m., until Labor Day, and then into the fall, depending (207-348-2300). Boding well: owner/chef Suzen Carter, who learned her craft in the Azores, is now part of a local fishing family, and her original Cockatoo restaurant—still open on Webb Cove—has an avid, if largely underground, following. She’s purportedly so zealous about freshness that she starts her lobster roll with a live crustacean. This takes awhile, but the pair of cockatoos in residence will entertain you, not to mention the stunning view.
Goose Cove Lodge from the beach. Photo by Ben Ellison
I have not yet eaten at the new Cockatoo II, but I soon will, and will report on the experience in the comments section you’ll find below. There will also be more photographs and navigation detail online. I strongly encourage you to comment on this and my other online columns—all for the common good.
That’s my five-point proposal. Go to Goose Cove, recreate, dine, tip well, and then go online to compare notes. Yes, we can!
This message was approved by freelance writer and MBH&H Contributing Editor Ben Ellison and the staff of Maine Boats, Homes & Harbors magazine.
Charlet Key:
1) Nature Conservancy's Barred Island Preserve
2) Barred Island Preserve, main trail
3) Goose Cove Lodge / High Shore Trail
4) One of the best beaches in the region
5) Cockatoo II Portuguese Seafood Restaurant (207-348-2300)
The electronic chart of Goose Cove. Photo by Ben Ellison
Goose Cove, Deer Isle, Maine. Photo by Ben Ellison
E-mail Ben (gizmo@benetech.net) about restaurants, parks, and the like that he can visit aboard the M/V Gizmo. Click here to travel with Ben Ellison and Gizmo on other coastal adventures on the Maine coast.
Issue:101 | Published: Author: Ben Ellison
click on any of the links above to read more about these topics.
Comments
Cockatoo II reviewed
This just in from Jim Boone of Vinalhaven:
In response to your article in Maine Boats, Homes and Harbors, we today visited this lovely and delicious restaurant. We traveled by boat from Vinalhaven and were able to anchor off the beach on a declining tide. It has a sandy bottom and the hook was easily secured. There is one unmarked rock near the beach that must be watched for. The restaurant does not have a mooring or a dock so we had taken a punt. To encourage boat visitors, a mooring or two would be helpful.
The setting for this restaurant is magnificent with views down the Bay, over to Vinalhaven and North Haven. We sat on an open deck with large umbrellas. To compete with the view though was the wonderful variety and high quality of the food and service. Our wait person was attentive, knowledgeable and did a fine job.
We had steamed little neck clams in a very spicy broth, cod fish balls, a fish sandwich which was very delicate and good, as well as Azorean Steak with an egg and rice and a tasty sauce. The only disappointment was the Kale Soup which was quite bland and initially served too hot. Toasted Portuguese bread was served which dipped very well in the seasoned steamed clam broth.
We ordered from the lunch menu but there was a dinner menu that looked out of this world. Apparently anything is offered at any time. We would recommend this restaurant to any one who can get there and will encourage Vinalhaven and North Haven people with boats to make this a lunch or late afternoon destination.
navigation notes
I still haven't had a meal at the Cockatoo II (anyone?), but do have some further notes on anchoring in Goose Cove:
First of all, note all the "obstructions that cover"---i.e. the asterisks marking rocks that show some time between low and high tide. Even at close to a normal low tide, I could not see the one marked "Barred I Ledge" or the other outer one to the right of the "rky" bottom notation. On the other hand, the ledge at the entrance to the inner cove is not as high as it's shown. The small yellow area with the "(10)" notation is, I think, a chart error. That symbolism indicates something that does not cover at high tide and in fact is 10' higher than a normal high tide. But this ledge does cover some times, so I believe that it is 10 feet above the average LOW tide.
At any rate, where I've put the anchor is the safer spot to get to, but I did in fact comfortably anchor north of the big, usually visible ledge, entering on the East side. It's too bad that the higher detail chart doesn't quite extend into that area, but is bigger and deeper than it looks. GPS plotting on NOAA raster charts like these, as well as C-Map charts, seemed to accurately guide me amongst the hazards. But of course I can take no responsibility for anyone else's experience in this gunkhole! Take care, and report back, please.
Post new comment